It has been nearly a month since I returned to Belize from my Easter vacation to Guatemala, so I suppose it is time for a blog about the amazing trip. I traveled with some fellow PCVs - Molly, xMegs, Grace, Amy and Amy’s friend Lauren. The trip into Guatemala is simple- we took a boat to Puerto Barrios from PG. Then it was a 5 hour bus ride to Guatemala City. We spent the night in the city and prepared for another 5 and a half hour bus trip to our first destination, Xela.
Xela (Quetzaltenango):We decided to start our trip in Xela because xMegs knew another PCV who lived there and recommended we come to check it out. Xela is a very active city with a group of large villages surrounding it. It was interesting to see what was considered a village in Guatemala, because they were about the same size as the district town that I live in. Xela is becoming a popular destination for travelers because of its plethora of Spanish language schools.
We spent our first day exploring the overwhelming city center. The roads were paved, there were markets for shopping every day of the week, people were walking around, shops were open during the lunch hour, there were tons of options for food and drink other than rice and beans with coke, and buildings were over 2 stories tall – quite the change from little PG! I made sure that I made time on my first day to enjoy a Guatemalan beer. Gallo is one of the most famous Guatemalan beers, so I tried that one first. I am happy to report that over the next few days I managed to try a bunch of other ones. I enjoyed the change from Belikin.
On our second day in Xela, Amy, xMegs, and I went for a hike to Laguna de Chicabal – an extinct volcano with a beautiful lake in the center. In order to reach the volcano, we first had to walk through a village and around a mountain. It was a steep climb to the top, and an even steeper walk down to the lake. It was an amazing view, even though there were some low clouds.
View of the lakeThe weather in Xela was surprising to us. I suppose we should have guessed that it would be cool in the mountains, but I don’t think any of us were prepared for the cold and rain. I wore the one sweatshirt and one pair of jeans I had brought every single day. The rain was a bit depressing, but it made for a good excuse to hang out in coffee shops.
I met some people staying at our hostel, and they recommended that I check out a local dive bar for some delicious microbrews. I went and it might be one of my favorite places in Guatemala. I enjoyed good beer, played foosball, listened to awesome 90’s dance music, and played pool. I met up with friends from the hostel and we went to another bar that night to hear some live music. I loved the active night life in Xela. It was a nice change from the 2 bars I usually find myself at in PG.
Guatemala is known for its Easter celebration, Semana Santa (Holy Week). In Xela we had our first Semana Santa experience. We saw a small procession walk laps around the main square. The processions are put on by different churches in the area and they tell the story of Jesus, his crucifixion, and his resurrection. Since it was the beginning of Holy Week, we saw processions focusing on Jesus’ life. Antigua has the most famous processions, so we headed there next.
Antigua:Antigua is a quaint city with small, colorful buildings lining the cobblestone streets. The hostel we stayed at was towards the outer edge of the city, and provided us with an escape from the hectic activities that filled the city. The hostel owner was a lovely lady who told us everything we needed to know and then some.
I arrived in Antigua with a mission: to find Siggy. I had been in touch with a PCV serving in Guatemala who told me that when I went to Antigua I needed to find this woman who was one of his closest friends and that she would tell me about the ins and outs of the city. Amy and I wandered around Antigua searching for Siggy and her shop, Casa de Los Gigantes. We eventually found her and it was wonderful. Siggy and another lady, Sherry, were so welcoming and I was extremely glad that we had hunted them down. While we were with Siggy and Sherry a procession passed by and they explained it to me and Amy.
The processions began a month or two before Semana Santa, with churches doing one every weekend depicting Jesus’ life. During Semana Santa, there were a couple processions each day. Friday’s processions were about the trial and crucifixion. Saturday was a day of mourning with the processions featuring only Mary. Sunday was the day of celebration. The processions are like parades going through the streets with floats and music. The floats are massive mahogany bases with scenes on top about the events of Jesus’ trial, crucifixion, resurrection, etc. The floats with Jesus on them are carried by men and the ones with Mary are carried by women. People pay to carry the floats, and that is how next year’s processions will be funded. The people who sign up to carry take turns because the floats are very heavy. Siggy explained to me that people pay to be a part of the processions for many reasons – they want to give thanks to God and the church, they are doing it in order to gain favor, they make a pact to do it every year in exchange for something like curing their child’s ailment.
One of the floats in the processionAnother aspect of the processions are the carpets, or fombras. People create elaborate carpets out of sawdust and flowers on the streets to give the people carrying the floats something nice and cushioning to walk on, in a symbolic way. The carpets take many people hours to create. I was invited by Siggy to come to her shop on Friday morning to help her and her friends create a carpet for the largest procession to pass over.
After meeting Siggy it was time for an early nights’ sleep. We were planning on waking up at midnight to see all the preparations for the large procession on Friday. People were out making carpets but then the rain came and things were ruined. Thankfully the rain passed quickly and people were able to rebuild as the streets dried. At 4 AM there was a reading at the church and then the large procession featuring Jesus’ trial and crucifixion began. There were a lot of people out to see the procession and there were also a lot of stands selling food open all night. The floats in this procession were absolutely massive.
That morning, after being awake all night, we went to meet Siggy at the shop to help make the carpet. I met a lot of people, including another PCV from Guatemala. Making the carpet is a time consuming process. We started by lining are carpet area with wood and filling it with sawdust to create a level work area. The next step was to put down a base color of green sawdust. Then the real fun began. We put down stencils and carefully filled them in with different colored sawdust to create our beautiful fombra. The whole process took about 5 hours. Most people only get to see the carpets lining the streets, so we were very fortunate to have such a unique experience.
The group who helped make the carpetMy favorite part of making the carpet was watching it get walked through. We had invested so much time and then the procession walked over it and destroyed the entire carpet. Maybe destroyed is the wrong word since the purpose of the carpet was to be walked on by the procession – I suppose it fulfilled its purpose.
Our destroyed carpet!Friday was an extremely long day and I was excited to get some sleep, because Saturday I was hiking an active volcano! Amy, Grace and I took the trip to Volcan Pacaya – an active volcano outside of Antigua. In the past people were allowed to go to the very top of it and look down into the lava, but now you must stay a little ways away from the peak due to some recent deaths. The hike to the volcano was fairly easy. As we reached the volcano we strolled past a huge sign saying “Dangerous Area - Extreme Risk.” The ground was like loose gravel, caused by the lava cooling and breaking as people walked over it. The ground was hot and you could see the steam rising off of it. There were spots along the way that had hot air blowing out of holes. The view was great, and the steam gave it an eerie aspect. It was very exciting to be on top of an active volcano and I am glad that I survived it.
Me with Pacaya in the backgroundSaturday night we were invited over to a Guatemalan family’s house for a traditional meal. One of the girls I was traveling with had met some Americans who were living in Guatemala, so they set up the dinner for us. It was nice to try some food, and it was very similar to Belize. We also had the chance to meet some interesting people and talk about living as a volunteer in Guatemala compared to Belize.
Easter Sunday is a day of celebration as Semana Santa comes to a close. People in the processions were wearing brightly colored outfits, dancing, and playing upbeat music. I was eager to spend some time alone on Sunday – I was in need of some relaxation. I wandered the streets and happened to run into some of my friends from PG. We caught up and were able to make plans for that night. I also ran into a girl who had couch surfed at my house. I suppose Antigua is a small place. I used my time alone to get some post cards written while I was relaxing in the main park. I met an interesting Guatemalan guy while I was there and we had a difficult conversation in our broken English/Spanish. I was happy when he invited me for a beer – last Easter, if you remember, I began my Easter drinking at 9am, and was hopeful to keep up with my new tradition. This guy, Ramon, invited me and my friends to join him for some dancing later that night.
Sunday night I gathered the troops and went out to meet every person that I knew in Antigua – as I had found friends I invited them to go out dancing. With our crew of over 10 assembled, Ramon led the way to a near-by club. We even managed to pick up another person along the way because for some reasons I talk to strangers. At the club I met an older Guatemalan guy and he made it his mission to teach us all to salsa dance. It was a lot of fun to learn, but I don’t think I am going to make dancing a potential career option.
The Dance CrewAntigua was amazing, and now it’s off to Flores and Tikal!
Flores and Tikal:
On Monday xMegs and Grace headed back to PG and the rest of us took a 2 hours bus ride back to Guatemala City and then a 10 hour bus ride to Flores – a small island that serves as the jumping off point for people to go to the gigantic Mayan ruin, Tikal. We spent some time relaxing and exploring the tiny island the first night, just enjoying some beer and food.
Tikal had been on my list of places to see since I had arrived in Belize, and I am glad I finally made it there. We stayed the night at Tikal in a resort just outside of the ruins. We took a sunrise tour of the park and were able to see a toucan and a bunch of howler monkeys. Later that day we went back to the park to do some exploring. While wandering the temples I served as our tour guide, reading excerpts from my guide book, sharing facts I had learned at other Mayan ruins, and making-up nearly believable information. The temples at Tikal are monstrous compared to those found in Belize. At one temple we saw some spider monkeys playing in the trees – and you all know that I can watch monkeys play for hours, so I really enjoyed it.
Me and Amy at Tikal
Me on top of one of the ruinsOur trip came to an end after our stay in Flores. We stayed at a famous hostel and it was fun to meet some other travelers there. Amy and I have been collecting information so we can start planning our Central America tour after we finish our Peace Corps service.
The trip to Guatemala was a blast. Check out the pictures at http://picasaweb.google.com/cali.zimmerman